“So,” said Cesca loudly and clearly, just as I was drinking from a water bottle, “What’s all this about China and Tiananmen Square?”
I almost did a spit take.
“Quiet!” I said and I looked around, wiping water running down my chin. Yes, we were standing bang in the middle of said location.
Cesca was annoyed and went red in the face, “What?!” she said.
“Don’t mention the protests in public!” I said in a hiss, “We’ll get deported!” I was acutely aware that I sounded like Basil Faulty around Germans.
“Oh don’t be silly,” she said with an incredulous look on her face.
I wasn’t being silly not in the least. Tiananmen Square was made world (in)famous by the 1989 student protests overzealously put down by guns and tanks. The Chinese government had learned a hard lesson in public relations that day, and a lot of protesters learned one too about the Chinese government.
In some respects I understand. It must be, for example, really hard to control this enormous country. Moreover, the history of China, written large in this square since 1400, has let flow more rivers of blood than any country other than perhaps Russia. After all, the long-gone Emperors of China had lived in the giant palace at one end of the square for a thousand years, but theirs had not been easy dynasties. Highlights include the Mongols marching in so successfully that most people forget it happened, the British fighting their way in, the Boxer Rebellion (a mind-meltingly hideous period of Chinese history), the Japanese invasion of WWII, and then – of course – Chairman Mao’s revolution and his cult of personality. Compared to those events the shooting of a few thousand uppity students hampering for Western Democracy doesn’t measure a blip. Tragic story that it is, horrible, murderous and paranoid that the reaction was, given Chinese history, I am not in the least bit surprised it happened.
However, it is true that the “love” for the great leader is long gone and for most little more than lip service. No one is praying daily to his photo any more for example. I’m glad. The problem with Maoism is not that the country is communist, communism is a really good idea, it is that Mao (in the same way that Stalin did) inserted himself in the mix at the top and was determined to stay there. China under Mao was a disaster because there were none of the “checks and balances” found in western democracies. For example, US Presidents, no matter how “great” or “powerful” can serve only two terms. Any attempt to change that will result in civil war in a heartbeat. In the UK, an all together more civilised nation, the Queen has the power to force an election on behalf of the people. A queen has done it before. Her power to do this is in the army (plus the police) because who do they swear allegiance to? That’s right; the Queen. Would they force an election out of an unruly government if the Queen said to? Yes, you bet your arse they would, they would enjoy it.
Not so in China, here power is concentrated in an élite ruling clique and without accountability to the people, shit happens. On that night the general who put down the protests was, from his point of view, protecting his capital and thereby his nation’s structure – but from everyone else’s he was protecting a political élite and it was to they that he was accountable. Of course, British generals have committed similar murders in India and Ireland but, and here is the rub, not against their own people. Not that he had a choice, even questioning verbal orders was almost a death sentence and the first general that night, who asked for written orders, was lucky to only get 5 years in jail.
So, the whole event is still an open sore for the Chinese government and wary of future protest they have installed undercover agents all over the square looking for troublemakers. I thought everyone knew that.
Still, it was a very impressive sight. The square is huge (the 3rd largest in the world) and a major civic junction. Moreover as a visitor to this city you will definitely come here; it’s simply impossible to ignore. At least you will walk across it a few times. The first thing you notice is that it is intensely political in focus with massive pictures of Mao adorning the palace and statues to the man’s theories prominently displayed.
This is a form of belief-building all nations do. The British, after all, have Nelson’s column and statues of other warrior leaders all over London silent of any historical judgement of them.
Amazingly we stayed only 2 minutes from this sight and could almost make it out from the window. Beijing, I quickly realised, is an incredible city. In places so modern it is breath-taking, but in other places – often overlapping – it is so ancient that one simply struggles to imagine that far back. Again, similar to London in that respect. Our visit was the culmination of our trip to China, and while we did have a mission while there (changing our Japan airline tickets – an adventure that would take 2000 words just to outline), we were really there just to be tourists.
Our first outing was to the palace of the Forbidden City itself and this was truly one of the highlights of my entire year away. There are two ways to do the palace and which one you take will define your experience.
The first way is to take a tour. This seems natural as there is so much to see and some expert guidance is welcome. However, this is often a great mistake. The City is roughly a succession of giant courtyards of varying importance leading front to back with a huge garden at the end.
You can walk directly through it in this regard and this is what the tours do – a basic straight run down the middle. Big mistake. The courtyards are all very samey and if you don’t know much about the intricacies of courtly life in the City before you get there, then you won’t understand it at all.
If you are very short on time and must take a tour (that in itself is a tragedy for this is one of the largest museums in the world) then I strongly suggest that you watch the TV series on Empress, the “Dowager Cixi” (one of the most fascinating and maligned women in history, whom is the source of the phrase “the power behind the throne”), which will give you a good primer to the place. Even so, you will miss much…
The second way is to go it alone and hire the wireless guide with headphones. This allows you to wander around the place and most importantly to the other large courtyards to the sides of the main areas that house the treasures and museums of which there are many.
The wireless device, which looks like a plastic slice of toast with a little map drawn on one side, is GPS controlled or some such and as you walk around it suddenly kicks in with commentary on what you are seeing, where in the city you are, and the history of that area.
Highlights for me included the incredible museum to Chinese pottery
(China’s pottery is the best in history – so much so we even call fine pottery “China”), the fascinating clock museum displaying the Chinese Emperor’s infatuation with Western style timepieces and mechanics (indulged as only a truly despotic regime can)…
…and the treasure chambers (which has diamonds the size of acorns).
Then, at you own pace, you can peer at the greatest Chan Buddhist treasures in the world (collected here by the obsessive Chinese Empress mentioned above who likened herself to a Buddhist deity)…