The majesty of the Cape was long lived in our minds, but we had to move on eventually.  We climbed back into The Mammoth and headed back down the coast towards Hokianga Harbour, which marks the lower end point of 90 Mile Beach and the start of the Kauri Coast.

The journey down took the best part of the day and it was getting dark and raining hard by the time we got to the road leading to the Kohu Kohu ferry.  As we drove down the access road I heard the sound I had been dreading; the sound of a flat tire.  We managed to limp onto the jetty and look at the time table.  A ferry was due in 5 minutes – no way to change the tire by then – and the last of the day was due 20 minutes later. 

The ferry did arrive and the crew offered their apologies but insisted that we must change the tire before boarding. I could hear a slight chuckle in their voices and they whistled and shook their heads.

Thus we had our challenge: could we change it before their return?

Bloody right we could! 

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For normal people the hiring of a campervan is simple.  However, for us, well…

We did our usual thing of arriving a full day ahead of the booking and yet somehow wangling ourselves a free upgrade and not being charged for the extra day.  I think that this is something to do with the puppy-eyed faces Cesca can pull when things seem not to be going her way.  People all around rush to her aid, anything to protect the innocent gentleness behind those eyes.  In another time such a power would have been called a mighty and terrible witchcraft - and perhaps I would have agreed with this Inquisition were it not for the fact that Cesca simply does not know that she does this! (and, of course, she has those eyes ready for me too…)

Anyway, after a little haggling we were given this:

[Cue A-TEAM intro music] “De de de… de de de… de-de-de-de-de… de-de-de-de!”

“Ten years ago, a crack commando unit was sent to New Zealand for crimes they didn’t commit. Today, still wanted by the government, they survive as backpackers of fortune. If you have a problem, if no one else can help, and if you can find them, maybe you can hire…

…a campervan?”

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Having vested ourselves of the plane to New Zealand from Sydney, and having made it through the somewhat mercurial Australian security check points with its “explosive smelling device”, we came to Auckland in the grip of a rain storm.  Fat welts of rain pummelled the pavements outside the airport doors throwing up a fine mist and risking localised flooding.  Well, this is New Zealand in winter!  As (Father-In-Law) Nick put it,

“If you can hack NZ in Winter then you’ll love it in summer!”

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Mount Cook

New Zealand is a country Cesca and I have longed to visit for many years.  Tales speak of this island and its seemingly unique people.  That they are more friendly than the most sociable of Australian’s, more “outdoors-loving” than even Scottish highlanders and more into extreme sports than anyone outside Cirque-de-soleil!  Moreover, all of the “Kiwis” I have met have been the most persuasive of ambassadors as they have a deep and abiding love of their country, a great love of sporting life and and all of them stand a pint.

Then Lord of the Rings came out and that, as they say, was that.

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A writers guide to what to take on your travels.

Many people like to keep their friends and families updated when travelling by using the power of the internet.  Email and Facebook are fine systems that allow travellers to pass on news of the wider world in simple bite size chunks, but these are not enough.  Travellers are often away for longer periods of time and have much more to say in the forms of pictures as well as words and even film.  The multimedia rich records of travel cannot easily be emailed without sending large files that clog up multiple inboxes.  Neither can you attach a movie to a postcard!

Why wait until you are back to show you family your pictures and film?  Why not let them experience the joy of travelling alongside you in a way that will endure?

You can!  The secret is to have the right kit with you – so that you can blog your way around the world.

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Arriving at night awarded Melbourne an impressive air as we crossed the bay bridge and gravitated toward the bright lights of the CBD.

Our abode here was luxurious compared to the hostels we had become accustomed to. Susannah and Rowan (family friend) had kindly offered us their spare room for a few days while we explored their home from home. As much a backpacking is the life we chose for now there is nothing like the comforts of home, even if it is not your own. Being surrounded by the warmth of friends, clean dry warm fresh-smelling fluffy towels, soft comfortable bed, efficient washing machine and detergent, homely kitchen, television etc and all complimentary too. For us this was heaven! After a delicious ‘welcome’ supper, I joke with Susannah that their abode would of course be included and scored our rated travel accommodation list on our blog. Obviously  there was nothing to concern her as their score is a clear 5/5 with the ultimate in luxury being able to lie-in passed 8am and not have to pack our bags for check out for a few of days. Bliss! Thank you again

 

Susannah and Rowan’s lovely St Kilda East home

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Our nippy little automatic

After much discussion and deliberation on the best/cheapest way to see the Great Ocean Road, we hired a car from Adelaide to Melbourne for the 3 day trip with our itinerary loosely based on a conventional tour.

Avis hired us a reasonably priced 5 door, brand new, automatic, Toyota Corolla which was lovely to drive. We (I) were particularly happy in was not white like most Aussie motor vehicles! The automatic gears were easier than we feared so, after a quick and embarrassing initial explanation, we were on the road.

Driving out of town we climbed up into the pretty wine region of the Adelaide Hills and the German settlement of Harndorf. At the cellar door we sampled a few good wines, of which Nepenthe Winery was a highlight for James having enjoyed their mixed grape blend named ‘Tryst’ many times before. In town lunch was classic German fare of sausages and sauerkraut. We pottered around the shops remarking how familiar the European culture and architecture seemed.

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