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	<title>Outside Context &#187; mekong</title>
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		<title>Laos, the gem of Indochina &#8211; a cultural connection</title>
		<link>http://www.outsidecontext.com/2009/05/21/laos-the-gem-of-indochina-a-cultural-connection/</link>
		<comments>http://www.outsidecontext.com/2009/05/21/laos-the-gem-of-indochina-a-cultural-connection/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Thu, 21 May 2009 05:12:10 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>cescabell</dc:creator>
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		<description><![CDATA[The missing Laos post by Cesca is found]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p><strong><em><span style="text-decoration: underline;">THE MISSING POST – this is the missing post from Francesca’s writings on her laptop.  The laptop died and I have only just recovered the data – here it is!</span></em></strong></p>
<p>Spend any time in Laos and it quickly becomes clear that tourism has the potential to ravage this beautiful culture. Travelling through the Laotian hubs is to see history in action. Starting with <em>Luang Prabang</em>; the epitome of French colonialism, forever been preserved for the future by UNESCO. Then comes the hedonistic delights of <em>Vang Vieng</em>; embracing wholeheartedly the wanton desires ‘twix tourism and Bacchus.  Confident and casual <em>Vientiane</em> is a capital that strives for progress and modernisation and yet has a totally inherited European attitude; all relaxation and good food. Southern city <em>Pakse</em> is the strange child.  It appears untouched by the 21th century and is rooted in the 1980’s.</p>
<p>Here is our journey…</p>
<p><span id="more-3061"></span></p>
<p><strong><em>Luang Prabang</em> – UNESCO</strong></p>
<p>Nestled beside the now golden river of the Mekgong, with temples scattered over the surrounding hills, <em>Luang Prabang</em> is an idyllic setting. Arrival at sunset is beautifully romantic and melts the heart of even the most hardened of travellers. As we disembarked up the river bank towards town the warm low-light danced around us. The air was thick with tuk-tuk drivers laid in-wait.  With 7 of us in our travelling group we had bargaining power on our side and Bobbits slickly negotiated a driver for the hostel trawl.  J&amp;I had pre-booked a room and so the troop piled into the guesthouse opposite.</p>
<blockquote><p><a href="http://www.outsidecontext.com/wordpress/wp-content/uploads/2008/writer//AdventuringinLaos_76A8/IMG_7593.jpg" rel="lightbox[3061]" title="IMG_7593"><img style="border-bottom: 0px; border-left: 0px; display: inline; border-top: 0px; border-right: 0px" title="IMG_7593" src="http://www.outsidecontext.com/wordpress/wp-content/uploads/2008/writer//AdventuringinLaos_76A8/IMG_7593_thumb.jpg" border="0" alt="IMG_7593" width="240" height="160" /></a> <a href="http://www.outsidecontext.com/wordpress/wp-content/uploads/2008/writer/AdventuringinLaos_76A8/_MG_7644.jpg" rel="lightbox[3061]" title="_MG_7644"><img style="display: inline" title="_MG_7644" src="http://www.outsidecontext.com/wordpress/wp-content/uploads/2008/writer/AdventuringinLaos_76A8/_MG_7644_thumb.jpg" border="0" alt="_MG_7644" width="240" height="160" /></a><br />
The beauty of <em>Luang Prabang</em></p>
</blockquote>
<p>We honestly fell in love with this place almost instantly. Laotians are very warm, friendly people and much more relaxed than their somewhat pushy neighbours. This relaxed vibe is so easy to slip into with the grand ex-colonial houses adorning the streets, which infuse each new turn with beauty, character and charm. I’m happy to report that the UN shares this view and has protected it from the ravages of modernisation by adding it to the World Heritage List thereby protecting its charms.</p>
<p>The city is based around a large Buddhist temple atop a hill in the centre.  It has a richer, more classic area at one end of town, which is filled with some amazing and ancient temples.  This then gives way to two streets adjoining this lush area to the more down market west end.  One street runs through town and is lined wall to wall with shops and travel agents of all types.  Some of these shops are very high end and charge accordingly, where as others offer more basic fare, with the night market being at the far west end holding all the bargains.</p>
<p>The other street follows the eastern curve of the river and is made up, mostly, of bars and western gift shops.  It was on this street that we found the excellent<em> </em><a href="http://www.kopnoi.com/aboutus.htm" target="_blank"><em>Kop Noi</em></a> fairtrade shop and its counterpart bookshop/cafe of <em>L’ettrager</em>.  The European influence of this area is vivid and it could quite easily be a continental riverside from anywhere in the union.  Once past these streets you are into the main accommodation areas, still nice, with large buildings full of character and gentile sophistication.  It was here that we stayed and all in all were very happy with the room.</p>
<p>One of the main attractions, apart from the alms and the river, is the ancient temple.  This has a small cost to enter, but the money was well spent.  The temple is a majestically old building that exudes an ancient character all of its own.  The architectural style of the Laos branch of Buddhist temple building is very peaceful.  Darker and more Japanese almost in its colour choices, the temple belies the bright and garish colours of its Thailand and Malaysian cousins.  Aside the main hall is a number of other buildings.  One contained the remains of hundred-year old Buddhist icons, statues and paraphernalia, all in an advanced state of decay.</p>
<p>The upshot was that walking around here made one feel the hand of history most clearly and the half faded, broken faces of the Buddha statues made for eerie but moving images.  The main building itself is painted all over with gold figures in outline.  The sight of these shining in the sunlight, passing through slotted windows framed in wooden relief, made for some of the most memorable photos from my entire time in Laos.</p>
<p><a href="http://www.outsidecontext.com/wordpress/wp-content/uploads/2008/writer//AdventuringinLaos_76A8/IMG_0789.jpg" target="_blank" rel="lightbox[3061]" title="IMG_0789"><img style="border-bottom: 0px; border-left: 0px; display: inline; border-top: 0px; border-right: 0px" title="IMG_0789" src="http://www.outsidecontext.com/wordpress/wp-content/uploads/2008/writer//AdventuringinLaos_76A8/IMG_0789_thumb.jpg" border="0" alt="IMG_0789" width="300" height="225" /></a> <a href="http://www.outsidecontext.com/wordpress/wp-content/uploads/2008/writer//AdventuringinLaos_76A8/IMG_0785.jpg" target="_blank" rel="lightbox[3061]" title="IMG_0785"><img style="border-bottom: 0px; border-left: 0px; display: inline; border-top: 0px; border-right: 0px" title="IMG_0785" src="http://www.outsidecontext.com/wordpress/wp-content/uploads/2008/writer//AdventuringinLaos_76A8/IMG_0785_thumb.jpg" border="0" alt="IMG_0785" width="300" height="225" /></a></p>
<p>We spent a good hour in the main hall finding all the interesting angles to shoot all this from and not ignoring the gigantic statue of the man himself in the centre of it all.  Recommended!</p>
<p>By day street vendors tempt you with Laotian delicacies like ‘meat on a stick’, sugarcane juice, fresh coconuts and for the less adventurous; French baguettes filled with ‘<em>La Vache Qui Rie’</em> or <em>Nutella</em>. Nightly, the market comes to life full of accessories and ornaments galore. All this is crowned off by the seduction of the life by the river.</p>
<p>I could have stopped here forever.</p>
<blockquote><p><a href="http://www.outsidecontext.com/wordpress/wp-content/uploads/2008/writer//AdventuringinLaos_76A8/_MG_7170.jpg" rel="lightbox[3061]" title="_MG_7170"><img style="border-bottom: 0px; border-left: 0px; display: inline; border-top: 0px; border-right: 0px" title="_MG_7170" src="http://www.outsidecontext.com/wordpress/wp-content/uploads/2008/writer//AdventuringinLaos_76A8/_MG_7170_thumb.jpg" border="0" alt="_MG_7170" width="240" height="160" /></a> <a href="http://www.outsidecontext.com/wordpress/wp-content/uploads/2008/writer//AdventuringinLaos_76A8/_MG_7190.jpg" rel="lightbox[3061]" title="_MG_7190"><img style="border-bottom: 0px; border-left: 0px; display: inline; border-top: 0px; border-right: 0px" title="_MG_7190" src="http://www.outsidecontext.com/wordpress/wp-content/uploads/2008/writer//AdventuringinLaos_76A8/_MG_7190_thumb.jpg" border="0" alt="_MG_7190" width="240" height="160" /></a><br />
Night market and the famous Laos T-Shirts (shame none fitted J or he would have bought 10)</p>
</blockquote>
<p>Part of my journey through Asia has been taken up with learning about Buddhism. It was therefore a real pleasure to see the Monks here wandering between their many temples in town and the surrounding hills. Their simple, beautiful robes of rich orange cotton adds a vibrancy to life and its daily rituals. Each morning, just before dawn breaks through the darkness, alms are collected by monks in exchange for a daily blessing. Monks process along the pavements to greet kneeling devotees for a blessing. For me this was a beautiful moment to admire the devotion of these people and think of the gift that Buddha bestowed upon everyone by showing us the path to enlightenment.</p>
<blockquote><p><a href="http://www.outsidecontext.com/wordpress/wp-content/uploads/2008/writer//AdventuringinLaos_76A8/_MG_7211.jpg" rel="lightbox[3061]" title="_MG_7211"><img style="border-bottom: 0px; border-left: 0px; display: inline; border-top: 0px; border-right: 0px" title="_MG_7211" src="http://www.outsidecontext.com/wordpress/wp-content/uploads/2008/writer//AdventuringinLaos_76A8/_MG_7211_thumb.jpg" border="0" alt="_MG_7211" width="240" height="160" /></a> <a href="http://www.outsidecontext.com/wordpress/wp-content/uploads/2008/writer//AdventuringinLaos_76A8/_MG_7260.jpg" rel="lightbox[3061]" title="_MG_7260"><img style="border-bottom: 0px; border-left: 0px; display: inline; border-top: 0px; border-right: 0px" title="_MG_7260" src="http://www.outsidecontext.com/wordpress/wp-content/uploads/2008/writer//AdventuringinLaos_76A8/_MG_7260_thumb.jpg" border="0" alt="_MG_7260" width="240" height="160" /></a><br />
Three of the team await the monks in the cold / The Buddhist path – Alms at dawn</p>
</blockquote>
<p>Alms traditionally constitutes the gift of uncooked rice that is then cooked by the temple chef. Buying cooked rice from dawn street sellers is discouraged due to the quality of their provisions. Better to buy uncooked rice in advance from the local market. It is worth remembering that Monks are generally vegetarian when selecting your provisions. It is not respectful to be higher than a monk and look down on them, so it usually pays to follow others by adopting the kneeling position.</p>
<p>Anyone wanting to participate in alms-giving should take careful consideration to respect this sacred proceeding. Ensure you remain at a respectful distance when taking photographs especially when using flash photography. I chose to stay on the opposite pavement and use my zoom despite the limitations this brought to my photography. I was saddened to witness many onlookers make no such consideration as hoards of cameras encircled like vultures around the processing monks. This was distasteful to the monks, the alms-givers and others forced to watch. I wish people would consider putting any self-interest aside in this moment.</p>
<p>During our time here Tony got his doctors position in Byron Bay Australia, Galloway nearly blew his weeks’ budget on a single frosted <em>Duvel</em>, and we were fortunate enough to stumble upon an all-night temple party!</p>
<blockquote><p><a href="http://www.outsidecontext.com/wordpress/wp-content/uploads/2008/writer//AdventuringinLaos_76A8/IMG_0758.jpg" target="_blank" rel="lightbox[3061]" title="IMG_0758"><img style="border-bottom: 0px; border-left: 0px; display: inline; border-top: 0px; border-right: 0px" title="IMG_0758" src="http://www.outsidecontext.com/wordpress/wp-content/uploads/2008/writer//AdventuringinLaos_76A8/IMG_0758_thumb.jpg" border="0" alt="IMG_0758" width="200" height="267" /></a></p>
<p>The temple party – the only photo taken</p>
</blockquote>
<p>The temple party was a big event with Laotian and western music passionately played to a mixed audience dancing in front of the temple. The Laotian way is to dance only to Laotian music and to empty the dance floor at the end of each song.  This made for an interesting vibe with the ‘half-cut’ foreigners dancing to everything no matter how bad it seemed to our western ears! After a few hours of jumping around we joined a large gathering of candle bearing Laotians and proceeded through town and back to the temple to pray and see a fireworks display.</p>
<p>Venturing out of town we enjoyed jumping in for a swim at the local waterfall and caught a glimpse of a few brown bears.</p>
<blockquote><p><a href="http://www.outsidecontext.com/wordpress/wp-content/uploads/2008/writer//AdventuringinLaos_76A8/IMG_0767.jpg" target="_blank" rel="lightbox[3061]" title="IMG_0767"><img style="border-bottom: 0px; border-left: 0px; display: inline; border-top: 0px; border-right: 0px" title="IMG_0767" src="http://www.outsidecontext.com/wordpress/wp-content/uploads/2008/writer//AdventuringinLaos_76A8/IMG_0767_thumb.jpg" border="0" alt="IMG_0767" width="180" height="240" /></a> <a href="http://www.outsidecontext.com/wordpress/wp-content/uploads/2008/writer//AdventuringinLaos_76A8/_MG_7051.jpg" rel="lightbox[3061]" title="_MG_7051"><img style="border-bottom: 0px; border-left: 0px; display: inline; border-top: 0px; border-right: 0px" title="_MG_7051" src="http://www.outsidecontext.com/wordpress/wp-content/uploads/2008/writer//AdventuringinLaos_76A8/_MG_7051_thumb.jpg" border="0" alt="_MG_7051" width="240" height="160" /></a></p>
<p>A quick swim and then a dangerous climb</p>
</blockquote>
<p>We then climbed to the top of the falls for fantastic views of the valley. Back on the low ground we viewed the countryside from a tuk-tuk and got a real sense of daily life. Farming is still the primary occupation with ploughing done by water-buffalo and elephants used for logging. Children smiled and waved from their shell-like homes as we whizzed by.</p>
<blockquote><p><a href="http://www.outsidecontext.com/wordpress/wp-content/uploads/2008/writer//AdventuringinLaos_76A8/_MG_7005.jpg" rel="lightbox[3061]" title="_MG_7005"><img style="border-bottom: 0px; border-left: 0px; display: inline; border-top: 0px; border-right: 0px" title="_MG_7005" src="http://www.outsidecontext.com/wordpress/wp-content/uploads/2008/writer//AdventuringinLaos_76A8/_MG_7005_thumb.jpg" border="0" alt="_MG_7005" width="412" height="275" /></a></p>
<p>It was hard to know where to begin to help</p>
</blockquote>
<p><strong><em>Vang Vieng</em> – tubing and party central</strong></p>
<p>Having begun with a cultural and very beautiful entrance into Laos it was now decision time. The question lay ahead, “do we follow our new found crazy friends to debauched <em>Vang Vieng</em> or follow the educational path to the <em>Plain of Jars</em>?” After much deliberation about whether we were too old for tubing we decided, “You’re only as old as you feel,” and headed to <em>Vang Vieng</em>.</p>
<blockquote><p><img style="border-bottom: 0px; border-left: 0px; display: inline; border-top: 0px; border-right: 0px" title="_MG_7825" src="http://www.outsidecontext.com/wordpress/wp-content/uploads/2008/writer//AdventuringinLaos_76A8/_MG_7825_thumb.jpg" border="0" alt="_MG_7825" width="361" height="239" /><br />
Above the clouds journey to <em>Vang Veing</em></p>
</blockquote>
<p><em>Vang Vieng</em> is essentially a party town for young travellers who love nothing better than to get battered and recover watching endless back-to-back episodes of ‘<em>Friends’</em> while slumped on a couch in any of the central restaurants. For ‘<em>Team Galloway’</em> this was heaven. Enthusiastically they arrived the day before the rest of us who decided <em>Luang Prabang</em> deserved us to ‘Stay Another Day’. The coach journey was long and very beautiful above the clouds, though the undisputed highlight was seeing a King Cobra on the road (thankfully from inside the coach). J saw it through the window and it then reared up to its full height.  Everyone on that side of the coach went wild with excitement- it was a massive snake. Only five minutes previously our group had stopped for a pee break with some people venturing into the undergrowth!</p>
<p>On our arrival Colin was as excited as a jack rabbit and instantly jumped at the invitation from some random fellow Irishmen to go tubing immediately. We, however, settled into sunbathing on platforms over the river; periodically jumping in for a dip between games of cards and mojitos.</p>
<p>Bliss.</p>
<p>The view of the steep caste-shaped mountains created a wonderful backdrop and the sun glistened on the water.</p>
<blockquote><p><img style="border-bottom: 0px; border-left: 0px; display: inline; border-top: 0px; border-right: 0px" title="_MG_7930" src="http://www.outsidecontext.com/wordpress/wp-content/uploads/2008/writer//AdventuringinLaos_76A8/_MG_7930_thumb.jpg" border="0" alt="_MG_7930" width="240" height="160" /> <img style="border-bottom: 0px; border-left: 0px; display: inline; border-top: 0px; border-right: 0px" title="_MG_7924" src="http://www.outsidecontext.com/wordpress/wp-content/uploads/2008/writer//AdventuringinLaos_76A8/_MG_7924_thumb.jpg" border="0" alt="_MG_7924" width="240" height="160" /><br />
Riverside fun</p>
</blockquote>
<p>That evening our Spanish contingent (Mariluz and Mariona) were getting increasingly concerned about Colin’s whereabouts. The Irishman had gone off without a word to them and they were not happy as it was now dark. As we discussed his disappearance Colin’s new-found Irish buddy arrived at the table and delivered to us Colin’s wallet and personal effects. Now nothing could calm or reassure Mariluz and the girls departed to check his room again for any signs of his return. With that Colin was spotted stumbling up the street. I have not seen someone so messed up in a long while.  Sporting only Bermuda shorts his torso was covered in red drawings and his legs were torn to shreds.</p>
<p>We hollered to him, “How was tubing?”</p>
<p>“It’s the best fun I’ve EVER had EVER and I’m not joking!” Was his reply.</p>
<blockquote><p><img style="border-bottom: 0px; border-left: 0px; display: inline; border-top: 0px; border-right: 0px" title="IMG_0816" src="http://www.outsidecontext.com/wordpress/wp-content/uploads/2008/writer//AdventuringinLaos_76A8/IMG_0816_3.jpg" border="0" alt="IMG_0816" width="240" height="180" /></p>
<p>There is nothing funnier than a battered Irishman!</p>
</blockquote>
<p>From there on in the night was a done deal, Colin was just too far gone to understand anything of the worry he caused and Mariluz couldn’t help but laugh at the state of him. We all decided to cut him no slack and went out drinking and dancing all night.</p>
<blockquote><p><img style="border-bottom: 0px; border-left: 0px; display: inline; border-top: 0px; border-right: 0px" title="IMG_0828" src="http://www.outsidecontext.com/wordpress/wp-content/uploads/2008/writer//AdventuringinLaos_76A8/IMG_0828.jpg" border="0" alt="IMG_0828" width="180" height="240" /> <img style="border-bottom: 0px; border-left: 0px; display: inline; border-top: 0px; border-right: 0px" title="IMG_0812" src="http://www.outsidecontext.com/wordpress/wp-content/uploads/2008/writer//AdventuringinLaos_76A8/IMG_0812.jpg" border="0" alt="IMG_0812" width="240" height="180" /></p>
<p>We decided to join in the fun</p>
</blockquote>
<p>As morning dawned it was the rest of the group’s turn for tubing.</p>
<p>The definition of tubing is the strapping of oneself into a lorry inner-tube and floating down the river like a horde of misdirected ducks.  Laotian tubing is nothing like this at all.  The tubing part is really only used to get across the river from one outrageous bucket-bar to another. At these makeshift mud banked bars, drinks only come it buckets with added M150 (super Red Bull). After the first bar we were plunging into the river from swings and wrestling in mud pools between dancing like crazy-things and it lasted all day long. Mariluz demonstrated how to get really quite drunk the redress the balance with Colin.</p>
<p>J, of course, took a waterproof video camera and later made a YouTube of the day which is here:</p>
<p>It really took us a few days to recover down by the river, and there was hardly a wrench strong enough to prise us out of our hammocks, but eventually we moved on.</p>
<p><strong><em>Vientiane</em> – The Capital</strong></p>
<p><em>Vientiane</em> has a charm about it that grows on you quickly and belies its nature as a third-world capital city. <em>Vientiane’s</em> old quarter oozes with post-colonial charm and is home to some of the most beautiful and oldest Buddhist temples. It is also easy to get sucked into the relaxed European-style cafe culture; popping out for a long brunch of croissants and excellent Laotian coffee, sightseeing by bicycle in the afternoons and enjoying a delicious evening meal of crispy spring rolls, morning glory and Mekong fish wrapped in banana leaves by the river at sunset.</p>
<blockquote><p><img style="border-bottom: 0px; border-left: 0px; display: inline; border-top: 0px; border-right: 0px" title="IMG_0311" src="http://www.outsidecontext.com/wordpress/wp-content/uploads/2008/writer//AdventuringinLaos_76A8/IMG_0311.jpg" border="0" alt="IMG_0311" width="216" height="162" /> <img style="border-bottom: 0px; border-left: 0px; display: inline; border-top: 0px; border-right: 0px" title="_MG_8479" src="http://www.outsidecontext.com/wordpress/wp-content/uploads/2008/writer//AdventuringinLaos_76A8/_MG_8479.jpg" border="0" alt="_MG_8479" width="240" height="160" /></p>
<p>The river view / a fish supper! / Biking around town</p>
</blockquote>
<p>There is no shortage of fun and different things to do here.  Having melted for the best part of two months in Asia it was finally time to don our bathing suits again and go to a water park. Have you ever been to a water park where there were no queue for any of the water slides?</p>
<p>We have.</p>
<p>In fact we had the whole park to ourselves as although it was over 30 degrees in Laos it was still winter!</p>
<p><em>Vientiane’s</em> water park would probably be closed down in Europe due to EU safety regulations. None-the-less, foam mats securely beneath us, arms firmly bent and legs straightened we launched ourselves down slides and dark twisted tubes into the waters below.  This was topped off with some sunbathing and a delicious Turkish lunch.</p>
<blockquote><p><img style="border-bottom: 0px; border-left: 0px; display: inline; border-top: 0px; border-right: 0px" title="_MG_8410" src="http://www.outsidecontext.com/wordpress/wp-content/uploads/2008/writer//AdventuringinLaos_76A8/_MG_8410.jpg" border="0" alt="_MG_8410" width="356" height="237" /></p>
<p>The lovely nightlife of the capital</p>
</blockquote>
<p>I felt ready again for a night’s antics and the cry went up to find a nightclub.  Clubbing and Laos are not something that naturally mix.  The Laotians notion of dancing is incredibly reserved and akin to line dancing. Thus, our team’s attempts to find a real nightclub induced some very funny moments including being driven halfway across the city only to find, whilst standing bemused in an empty hotel car park, that the nightclub was <em>inside</em> the hotel and didn’t open until the wee hours. Embarrassed we took the drivers recommendation of where to go next and wound up in a line-dancing hostess bar, where the waiter insisted on pouring our beers into glasses and Lenin got an all-male shoulder massage in the gents! Finally after one beer, and a quick line-dance, we departed.</p>
<p>We finally found a solitary bar with the sign of the bat on the door.  This place was a last resort but was playing some great live music, including a brilliant rendition of Pink Floyd.</p>
<p>The next day, J and I explored the city by bike.  Biking in Laos was not the smartest thing we ever did, as the roads are madness, but we enjoyed visiting the amazing temples and sights of the capital at our own pace.</p>
<blockquote><p><img style="border-bottom: 0px; border-left: 0px; display: inline; border-top: 0px; border-right: 0px" title="IMG_0309" src="http://www.outsidecontext.com/wordpress/wp-content/uploads/2008/writer//AdventuringinLaos_76A8/IMG_0309.jpg" border="0" alt="IMG_0309" width="300" height="225" /> <img style="border-bottom: 0px; border-left: 0px; display: inline; border-top: 0px; border-right: 0px" title="IMG_0866" src="http://www.outsidecontext.com/wordpress/wp-content/uploads/2008/writer//AdventuringinLaos_76A8/IMG_0866.jpg" border="0" alt="IMG_0866" width="300" height="225" /></p>
<p>Capital delights and a great break from the norm</p>
</blockquote>
<p>Our final stop in the capital was to visit the inspiring and amazing MAG (Mines Action Group) and COPE.  These two are covered in other blog entries, but I cannot stress enough the brilliant work they do for this wonderful country.</p>
<p><strong></strong></p>
<p><strong><em>Pakse</em> – southern regional town</strong></p>
<p>Initially chosen as a stop-over on our way through to the 4,000 Islands we ended up here for four days.</p>
<p>As we waited for our pickup for the night-bus to <em>Pakse</em>, Bobbits and Lenin came to see us off. Little did we know they were planning a ruse. As we said our goodbyes they launched their surprise by announcing that they were coming with us! Sadly though events conspired against us and we ended up on separate buses!</p>
<p>The night-bus was a nightmare.</p>
<p>J and I squeezed ourselves into the ‘double’ bed with feet dangling into the aisle and my face pressed against the window. Moving was not an option. Topping off the physical torture was the ear-bursting cacophony of Laotian music screeching out at full blast from the bus TV. God-bless ear-plugs and eye-masks.</p>
<blockquote><p><img style="border-bottom: 0px; border-left: 0px; display: inline; border-top: 0px; border-right: 0px" title="_MG_8708" src="http://www.outsidecontext.com/wordpress/wp-content/uploads/2008/writer//AdventuringinLaos_76A8/_MG_8708.jpg" border="0" alt="_MG_8708" width="339" height="227" /><br />
Smiling through adversity on the night bus to <em>Pakse</em></p>
</blockquote>
<p>We arrived at dawn in <em>Pakse</em> in need of a good nights sleep and a chiropractor! It took several hours waiting to secure ourselves a very basic room in a nice hostel, sorted. Rooms, we found out, were like gold dust; unbeknown to us the <em>Laos Games </em>(their version of the Olympic Games) was being held here and the following night was the Opening Ceremony. As it turned out our friends had skipped town and gone straight to the 4,000 Islands. In all honestly we felt a little cheated and jealous at the news, but soon events turned back in our favour.</p>
<p>Next afternoon ‘<em>Team Galloway’</em> arrived in town after a disastrous journey via <em>Savannahket</em> (involving a small bus fire!) The Opening Ceremony was today and <span style="text-decoration: underline;">absolutely</span> every room was full. We helped as much as we could, but eventually advised them to skip town and head onwards to <em>Champasak</em>. Begrudgingly they clambered into another tuk-tuk. Without a word uttered between them, we waved them goodbye.</p>
<p>That was the last we saw of them, until we met in <em>Bangkok</em> 2 months later!</p>
<p>That night J was very unwell and so I watched the celebrations complete with parachutists, traditional performances and fireworks exploding into the nights sky, without him; only accompanied by some locals. We later learned that some people ended up sleeping in temples that night, so bad was rooms’ situation in town.</p>
<blockquote><p><img style="border-bottom: 0px; border-left: 0px; display: inline; border-top: 0px; border-right: 0px" title="IMG_8798" src="http://www.outsidecontext.com/wordpress/wp-content/uploads/2008/writer//AdventuringinLaos_76A8/IMG_8798.jpg" border="0" alt="IMG_8798" width="339" height="227" /><br />
Opening ceremony fireworks at the Laos Games</p>
</blockquote>
<p>The next day, as we planned our escape to the islands, Bobbits and Lenin sent us a message, “We’re coming back up to <em>Pakse</em> tonight as there are no ATMs down here!”</p>
<p>How we laughed!</p>
<p>We fixed them up some gold-dust rooms (now a few had come available) and they arrived the next morning.  So on our final night here we partied hard at the local funfair.</p>
<p><img style="border-bottom: 0px; border-left: 0px; display: inline; border-top: 0px; border-right: 0px" title="IMG_0911" src="http://www.outsidecontext.com/wordpress/wp-content/uploads/2008/writer//AdventuringinLaos_76A8/IMG_0911.jpg" border="0" alt="IMG_0911" width="180" height="240" /> <img style="border-bottom: 0px; border-left: 0px; display: inline; border-top: 0px; border-right: 0px" title="IMG_0916" src="http://www.outsidecontext.com/wordpress/wp-content/uploads/2008/writer//AdventuringinLaos_76A8/IMG_0916.jpg" border="0" alt="IMG_0916" width="240" height="180" /></p>
<p>We were more bouncy than the bouncy castle and more dodgy than the dodgems. After the obligatory ‘meat-on-a-stick’ dinner our <em>Pakse</em> adventures were complete and the 4,000 islands were yet to come!</p>
<p>From here we had one last adventure on the Mekong before departing for Cambodia. For this please see my post on Laos PDR – Mekong Meanderings.</p>
<p>Regards,</p>
<p>Cesca</p>
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		<title>Laos P.D.R. &#8211; Mekong meanderings</title>
		<link>http://www.outsidecontext.com/2009/04/11/laos-pdr-mekong-meanderings/</link>
		<comments>http://www.outsidecontext.com/2009/04/11/laos-pdr-mekong-meanderings/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Sat, 11 Apr 2009 13:14:42 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>cescabell</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Featured]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[General]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Travel]]></category>
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		<category><![CDATA[around the world]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[bobbits]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[laos]]></category>
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		<category><![CDATA[mekong]]></category>
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		<description><![CDATA[“Life is a musical thing and you’re supposed to sing or dance along the way"]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Our travels in Laos were topped and tailed by adventures on the mighty Mekong River.  They began with a two day slow-boat trip from the Thai boarder town of Chiang Kong downstream to Luang Prabang and ended, almost a month later, with us relaxing amongst the 4,000 islands. An impressive journey in its own right, though it was our new travelling friends that made it into the great adventure.</p>
<blockquote><p>“Life is a musical thing and you’re supposed to sing or dance along the way.” Alan Watts</p>
</blockquote>
<p>Our thanks go out to; Bobbits (Lauren), Lenin (Tony) and ‘Team Gallway’; Colin “The Best Fun I’ve Ever Had Ever And I’m Not Joking” McGrath, Mariluz (Mari-looser) and Mariona (Mari-winner) for all the fun and craziness.</p>
<p><a href="http://www.outsidecontext.com/wordpress/wp-content/uploads/2008/cescawriter/MeanderingontheMekong_E525/_MG_6316.jpg" rel="lightbox[2961]" title="_MG_6316"><img style="display: inline" title="_MG_6316" src="http://www.outsidecontext.com/wordpress/wp-content/uploads/2008/cescawriter/MeanderingontheMekong_E525/_MG_6316_thumb.jpg" border="0" alt="_MG_6316" width="340" height="227" /></a> <a href="http://www.outsidecontext.com/wordpress/wp-content/uploads/2008/cescawriter/MeanderingontheMekong_E525/_MG_6408.jpg" rel="lightbox[2961]" title="_MG_6408"><img style="display: inline" title="_MG_6408" src="http://www.outsidecontext.com/wordpress/wp-content/uploads/2008/cescawriter/MeanderingontheMekong_E525/_MG_6408_thumb.jpg" border="0" alt="_MG_6408" width="340" height="227" /></a></p>
<p><strong></strong></p>
<p><strong>Journey’s beginning</strong></p>
<p><strong><span id="more-2961"></span><br />
</strong></p>
<p>Staying at a lovely riverside guesthouse in Chiang Khong we gazed over the Mekong River from Thailand into Laos. The mysterious and magical landscape of undulating hills lit by moonlight sparked our imaginations about what wonders we might find beyond this watery boundary.</p>
<p>It is not hard to visualise the beauty to behold in Malaysia, Thailand, Cambodia or Vietnam since endless talented photographers have splashed rich imagery of paddy fields, palm trees and colourful textiles across countless books and magazine spreads. Laos, however, was not so vividly known to us through image or article and so retained an mystery about its landscape, people and culture. Having spent only a few weeks over-landing through Singapore, Malaysia and Northern Thailand it was difficult to anticipate how Laos would differ from our initially brief SEA experience. Though genuinely a little wary of stepping into this unknown territory and with only a sketchy plan for a two day trip down the Mekong River we threw caution to the wind and ventured forth into Laos.</p>
<p>The entire guesthouse rose early, happy and excited. Gifted with lunch packs, water bottles and cushions for the wooden seats of the slow boat we all loaded into the back of a pickup with luggage pilled high between us. At this moment fate played a hand and this truck load of people became our travel companions for the entirety of our Laos experience and we soon became ‘friends beyond borders’.</p>
<p><a href="http://www.outsidecontext.com/wordpress/wp-content/uploads/2008/cescawriter/MeanderingontheMekong_E525/_MG_6333.jpg" rel="lightbox[2961]" title="_MG_6333"><img style="display: inline" title="_MG_6333" src="http://www.outsidecontext.com/wordpress/wp-content/uploads/2008/cescawriter/MeanderingontheMekong_E525/_MG_6333_thumb.jpg" border="0" alt="_MG_6333" width="240" height="160" /></a> <a href="http://www.outsidecontext.com/wordpress/wp-content/uploads/2008/cescawriter/MeanderingontheMekong_E525/_MG_6348.jpg" rel="lightbox[2961]" title="_MG_6348"><img style="display: inline" title="_MG_6348" src="http://www.outsidecontext.com/wordpress/wp-content/uploads/2008/cescawriter/MeanderingontheMekong_E525/_MG_6348_thumb.jpg" border="0" alt="_MG_6348" width="240" height="160" /></a></p>
<p><strong>Crossing into Laos – visa on arrival</strong></p>
<p>With little fuss this amazingly simple task was executed at the small visa-on-arrival and passport office by at the riverside. All that was required were a passport and mug shot each and the requested amount of local currency. With protocol completed we transferred quickly by tuk-tuk to the boat departure point a little downstream. Great swathes of tourists amassed and were summarily gouged for refreshments by local newsagents. However the cafe atmosphere was bathed in early morning sun which did much to relax everyone and precipitate chatting.</p>
<p>All passports had to be verified by the police here so unnervingly we all handed our passports over to our guide, not something that ever comes easily to someone on foreign soil. The only comfort was the number of tourists ‘in the same boat’ so to speak! We waited anxiously for their safe return as the guides casually wandered around grasping stacks of passports.</p>
<blockquote><p><a href="http://www.outsidecontext.com/wordpress/wp-content/uploads/2008/cescawriter/MeanderingontheMekong_E525/_MG_6354.jpg" rel="lightbox[2961]" title="_MG_6354"><img style="display: inline" title="_MG_6354" src="http://www.outsidecontext.com/wordpress/wp-content/uploads/2008/cescawriter/MeanderingontheMekong_E525/_MG_6354_thumb.jpg" border="0" alt="_MG_6354" width="340" height="227" /></a><br />
Passport collection beside the Mekong River!</p>
</blockquote>
<p>In due course we herded down the rucksack strewn boat ramp and joined the throngs of tourists queuing to board. I have learnt that waiting and queuing are part and parcel of travelling and therefore should be calmly accepted, within reason. I quickly learnt that you can never predict what your actual journey will entail only that you will get to your destination eventually, hopefully in the near future, and generally all the richer for the experience. Time duly passed and with no progress being made I had a feeling we were now probably ‘on Laos time’. Slightly bemused by the delay, but patiently English about queuing we all waited. Old habits die hard!</p>
<p>Slowly tongues started wagging and it became clear that this was in fact a protest! Tourist were voting with their feet to force a second slow-boat to be provided rather than cramming us all onto one. As was had tickets for the currently empty boat we made a run for it, the best you can with a 23kg backpack and the rest! It was worth the energy expenditure as we secured ourselves the few padded car seats at the back so no sore bums or cushions required for us!</p>
<p><strong>Along the Mekong River – Day 1</strong></p>
<p>The impressively long Mekong River flows from the mountains of China through Thailand before entering Northern Laos where it follows closely to the Western boarder all the way to the 4,000 islands in the South before flowing into Cambodia and through the Mekong Delta in Southern Vietnam, exiting into the South China Sea.</p>
<blockquote><p><a href="http://www.outsidecontext.com/wordpress/wp-content/uploads/2008/cescawriter/MeanderingontheMekong_E525/_MG_6387.jpg" rel="lightbox[2961]" title="_MG_6387"><img style="display: inline" title="_MG_6387" src="http://www.outsidecontext.com/wordpress/wp-content/uploads/2008/cescawriter/MeanderingontheMekong_E525/_MG_6387_thumb.jpg" border="0" alt="_MG_6387" width="484" height="323" /></a><br />
<a href="http://www.outsidecontext.com/wordpress/wp-content/uploads/2008/cescawriter/MeanderingontheMekong_E525/_MG_6426.jpg" rel="lightbox[2961]" title="_MG_6426"><img style="display: inline" title="_MG_6426" src="http://www.outsidecontext.com/wordpress/wp-content/uploads/2008/cescawriter/MeanderingontheMekong_E525/_MG_6426_thumb.jpg" border="0" alt="_MG_6426" width="240" height="160" /></a> <a href="http://www.outsidecontext.com/wordpress/wp-content/uploads/2008/cescawriter/MeanderingontheMekong_E525/_MG_6471.jpg" rel="lightbox[2961]" title="_MG_6471"><img style="display: inline" title="_MG_6471" src="http://www.outsidecontext.com/wordpress/wp-content/uploads/2008/cescawriter/MeanderingontheMekong_E525/_MG_6471_thumb.jpg" border="0" alt="_MG_6471" width="240" height="160" /></a></p>
<p>Life on the river</p>
</blockquote>
<p>Crammed with tourists and a sprinkling of friendly locals the slow boat became a lively place. We had such fun sharing food with the Laotians and gesticulating to overcome the large language barrier. At the back of the boat the motor was particularly loud and smelly even though a mountain of luggage muffled some of the machinery. The noise did not prevent the ebb and flow of chatter though or the inevitable drift of passengers in and out of consciousness as the countless hills slowly blended together and silently slipped by.</p>
<p>Travelling on the river provides an idyllic window into the beautifully untouched landscape and tribal culture of rural Laos. Children play on small but perfectly formed stretches of white sand dotted along the river bank. Fishing rods glisten as they dip into the fast waters is search of a bite from a hungry Mekong Fish. Communities of simple huts perch on hillsides surrounded by breathtaking views and bountiful indigenous forest. People may look on their lives as poor by western standards, but I think wealth is relative. These people to me are richer in life than all those who chase only financial wealth as a route to happiness.</p>
<p><strong>Overnight in Pak Beng</strong></p>
<p>Though the days travel had brought with it new found friends and a glimpse into the treasures of Laos, as the sun set I felt more than ready to disembark for the night. Blessed with a constant flow of tourists onto its banks every evening Pak Beng has seemingly won the lottery from a prosperity point of view. Never-the-less this small town lacks any panache that would normally be associated with such a place and instead of becoming a tourist haven it has become a conman&#8217;s one. Scams are rife and illegal drugs too.</p>
<blockquote><p><a href="http://www.outsidecontext.com/wordpress/wp-content/uploads/2008/cescawriter/MeanderingontheMekong_E525/IMG_6613.jpg" rel="lightbox[2961]" title="IMG_6613"><img style="display: inline" title="IMG_6613" src="http://www.outsidecontext.com/wordpress/wp-content/uploads/2008/cescawriter/MeanderingontheMekong_E525/IMG_6613_thumb.jpg" border="0" alt="IMG_6613" width="240" height="160" /></a> <a href="http://www.outsidecontext.com/wordpress/wp-content/uploads/2008/cescawriter/MeanderingontheMekong_E525/_MG_6727.jpg" rel="lightbox[2961]" title="_MG_6727"><img style="display: inline" title="_MG_6727" src="http://www.outsidecontext.com/wordpress/wp-content/uploads/2008/cescawriter/MeanderingontheMekong_E525/_MG_6727_thumb.jpg" border="0" alt="_MG_6727" width="240" height="160" /></a><br />
Changing light at Pak Beng</p>
</blockquote>
<p>Secure in the knowledge of the potential pitfalls ‘our mob’ quickly negotiated accommodation up the hill. Funnily enough, but not at all surprisingly, on our arrival at the guesthouse the price had suddenly increased! We quickly quashed this firmly by sticking to our agreed price. Eventually they kept to their word. That night we celebrated Mariluz’s birthday with dinner overlooking the river. To my great amusement ‘happy meals’ were on the menu which were summarily declined by the entire party. Knowing the sever penalties for drug taking in these parts you would be a fool to indulge. Despite our hosts suspicious nature and frequent room inspections ‘Bob Marley’ did not make any appearance that night. We gave our time over to having a great laugh with plenty of drinking, smoking, card playing (and nudity in parts)!</p>
<p><strong>Along the Mekong River – Day 2</strong></p>
<p>Despite the antics we rose early to secure good seats again as the Lonely Planet advised. Dragging ourselves into the vertical position, despite the inevitable hangovers, was not fun. Though further torture was to come when we were subjected to watching and waiting for the slowest sandwich-maker in history make our lunch. A dose of strong Laos coffee was administered and we finally left this grotty place and headed down to the boat for 7am. Our effort was again rewarded as we secured the only comfortable seats onboard. Happy days. Now we slipped into our seats and slowly woke up whilst on the river itself (though for some the bobbing up and down was not ideal!). As others scrambled to get a wooden seat and stow their cumbersome rucksacks, I was happy to photographically exploit the ‘golden hours’. We departed around 8am.</p>
<p>The scenery started out much the same on day two so alternative entertainment was gleaned from books, iPods, cameras, playing cards and chit chat as others plugged in their earplugs to drown out the increased background noise. Periodically we could hear the determined negotiations of disgruntled passengers who’d been short-changed by the greedy onboard shop assistant. As the day slipped by and hangovers subsided our smiles reappeared. Dusk arrived and so did we in Luang Prabang.</p>
<blockquote><p><a href="http://www.outsidecontext.com/wordpress/wp-content/uploads/2008/cescawriter/MeanderingontheMekong_E525/IMG_6998.jpg" rel="lightbox[2961]" title="IMG_6998"><img style="display: inline" title="IMG_6998" src="http://www.outsidecontext.com/wordpress/wp-content/uploads/2008/cescawriter/MeanderingontheMekong_E525/IMG_6998_thumb.jpg" border="0" alt="IMG_6998" width="340" height="227" /></a></p>
<p>James follows the backpacker trail into Luang Prabang</p>
</blockquote>
<p>Overall our group all enjoyed the Mekong trip and I would recommend it. I believe there are more luxurious places to stay on the Mekong, but obviously this is relative to your budget and not ours! My suggestions for maximising enjoyment is arriving early to secure a good seat (photographically and shelter from the sun), bringing food and water provisions onboard, a cushion and lots of entertainment and perhaps a hangover cure or sea-sickness pills for day 2!</p>
<p>*See the next post for our time in Luang Prabang and journey south through Laos.*</p>
<p><strong>Journey’s end – The 4,000 Islands</strong></p>
<p>As our month in Laos came to a close we happily came back to the Mekong River for another dose of fun and relaxation to round off the trip. Festooned throughout the southern meanderings of the Mekong River are many beautiful and largely untouched islands of varying sizes; some large enough to support villages, temples and tourists too.</p>
<p>Taking up our friends’ recommendation we first stopped off for some quiet time before rejoining the group on another island. Though we were having a blast travelling en mass, it was good to have some ‘Mummy and Daddy time’ too! The minivan from Pakse dropped us at the riverside where a local boatman took us over to our guesthouse on the island shore opposite. He gave such a good sales pitch for his river boat tours using good English and a non pushy tone that we booked his services for our trip downstream in a couple of days.</p>
<p><strong>Don Khong</strong> is a relatively large island though easily explorable by bike. With a wonderfully peaceful vibe it is easy to tap into the relaxed pace of island life. Life here is simple with farming as the source of sustainability. Villages formed of raised wooden houses dot the landscape, though these villagers are surprisingly well connected with the outside world through satellite and the internet!</p>
<blockquote><p><a href="http://www.outsidecontext.com/wordpress/wp-content/uploads/2008/cescawriter/MeanderingontheMekong_E525/_MG_8877.jpg" rel="lightbox[2961]" title="_MG_8877"><img style="display: inline" title="_MG_8877" src="http://www.outsidecontext.com/wordpress/wp-content/uploads/2008/cescawriter/MeanderingontheMekong_E525/_MG_8877_thumb.jpg" border="0" alt="_MG_8877" width="240" height="160" /></a> <img style="display: inline" title="_MG_8924" src="http://www.outsidecontext.com/wordpress/wp-content/uploads/2008/cescawriter/MeanderingontheMekong_E525/_MG_8924_thumb.jpg" border="0" alt="_MG_8924" width="240" height="160" /><img style="display: inline" title="_MG_8883" src="http://www.outsidecontext.com/wordpress/wp-content/uploads/2008/cescawriter/MeanderingontheMekong_E525/_MG_8883_thumb.jpg" border="0" alt="_MG_8883" width="240" height="160" /> <a href="http://www.outsidecontext.com/wordpress/wp-content/uploads/2008/cescawriter/MeanderingontheMekong_E525/_MG_8941.jpg" rel="lightbox[2961]" title="_MG_8941"><img style="display: inline" title="_MG_8941" src="http://www.outsidecontext.com/wordpress/wp-content/uploads/2008/cescawriter/MeanderingontheMekong_E525/_MG_8941_thumb.jpg" border="0" alt="_MG_8941" width="240" height="160" /></a></p>
<p>Free to roam the island or cyberspace</p>
</blockquote>
<p>We enjoyed the simple life here. Cycling about amongst the rice paddies watching water-buffalo wading and grazing in the heat of the day, exploring local villages and dining at the waters edge. Romantic.</p>
<blockquote><p><a href="http://www.outsidecontext.com/wordpress/wp-content/uploads/2008/cescawriter/MeanderingontheMekong_E525/_MG_8885.jpg" rel="lightbox[2961]" title="_MG_8885"><img style="display: inline" title="_MG_8885" src="http://www.outsidecontext.com/wordpress/wp-content/uploads/2008/cescawriter/MeanderingontheMekong_E525/_MG_8885_thumb.jpg" border="0" alt="_MG_8885" width="240" height="160" /></a> <a href="http://www.outsidecontext.com/wordpress/wp-content/uploads/2008/cescawriter/MeanderingontheMekong_E525/_MG_9014.jpg" rel="lightbox[2961]" title="_MG_9014"><img style="display: inline" title="_MG_9014" src="http://www.outsidecontext.com/wordpress/wp-content/uploads/2008/cescawriter/MeanderingontheMekong_E525/_MG_9014_thumb.jpg" border="0" alt="_MG_9014" width="240" height="160" /></a></p>
<p>Life in the river</p>
</blockquote>
<p>Travelling down river here was a special experience. Much less touristy than the northern Mekong and with many more villages draped down to the waters edge you get to see a rich tapestry of life on the river. Fishing boats and nets festoon the riverbank, small allotments grow well next to the waterside, clothes and people wash in the river and water buffalo roam free. Traditional boats navigate up and downstream transporting villagers too and fro and sometimes Monks who cover their faces from the unrepentant spray.</p>
<p><a href="http://www.outsidecontext.com/wordpress/wp-content/uploads/2008/cescawriter/MeanderingontheMekong_E525/_MG_9181.jpg" rel="lightbox[2961]" title="_MG_9181"><img style="display: inline" title="_MG_9181" src="http://www.outsidecontext.com/wordpress/wp-content/uploads/2008/cescawriter/MeanderingontheMekong_E525/_MG_9181_thumb.jpg" border="0" alt="_MG_9181" width="324" height="216" /></a> <a href="http://www.outsidecontext.com/wordpress/wp-content/uploads/2008/cescawriter/MeanderingontheMekong_E525/_MG_9293.jpg" rel="lightbox[2961]" title="_MG_9293"><img style="display: inline" title="_MG_9293" src="http://www.outsidecontext.com/wordpress/wp-content/uploads/2008/cescawriter/MeanderingontheMekong_E525/_MG_9293_thumb.jpg" border="0" alt="_MG_9293" width="324" height="216" /></a><br />
<a href="http://www.outsidecontext.com/wordpress/wp-content/uploads/2008/cescawriter/MeanderingontheMekong_E525/_MG_9018.jpg" rel="lightbox[2961]" title="_MG_9018"><img style="display: inline" title="_MG_9018" src="http://www.outsidecontext.com/wordpress/wp-content/uploads/2008/cescawriter/MeanderingontheMekong_E525/_MG_9018_thumb.jpg" border="0" alt="_MG_9018" width="160" height="240" /></a> <a href="http://www.outsidecontext.com/wordpress/wp-content/uploads/2008/cescawriter/MeanderingontheMekong_E525/_MG_9164.jpg" rel="lightbox[2961]" title="_MG_9164"><img style="display: inline" title="_MG_9164" src="http://www.outsidecontext.com/wordpress/wp-content/uploads/2008/cescawriter/MeanderingontheMekong_E525/_MG_9164_thumb.jpg" border="0" alt="_MG_9164" width="160" height="240" /></a> <a href="http://www.outsidecontext.com/wordpress/wp-content/uploads/2008/cescawriter/MeanderingontheMekong_E525/IMG_9299.jpg" rel="lightbox[2961]" title="IMG_9299"><img style="display: inline" title="IMG_9299" src="http://www.outsidecontext.com/wordpress/wp-content/uploads/2008/cescawriter/MeanderingontheMekong_E525/IMG_9299_thumb.jpg" border="0" alt="IMG_9299" width="160" height="240" /></a> <a href="http://www.outsidecontext.com/wordpress/wp-content/uploads/2008/cescawriter/MeanderingontheMekong_E525/_MG_9162.jpg" rel="lightbox[2961]" title="_MG_9162"><img style="display: inline" title="_MG_9162" src="http://www.outsidecontext.com/wordpress/wp-content/uploads/2008/cescawriter/MeanderingontheMekong_E525/_MG_9162_thumb.jpg" border="0" alt="_MG_9162" width="160" height="240" /></a></p>
<p>Our destination was the sunrise side of <strong>Don</strong> <strong>Dhet</strong>. This is the place to swing lazily in a hammock on a private balcony of your own bamboo bungalow overlooking the Mekong, or so we thought. My description is in essence true only the huts were more basic than anyone could imagine. There was finesse about this wooden bed box with no door handle and a trunk style latch with small padlock for security. The string hammock was very uncomfortable for anything over a few minutes and the facilities were a dark cold shower and squat toilet in a tin and breezeblock construction across the path beside the owners home. Still for two quid a night who’s complaining and our friends were here!</p>
<blockquote><p><a href="http://www.outsidecontext.com/wordpress/wp-content/uploads/2008/cescawriter/MeanderingontheMekong_E525/_MG_9630.jpg" rel="lightbox[2961]" title="_MG_9630"><img style="display: inline" title="_MG_9630" src="http://www.outsidecontext.com/wordpress/wp-content/uploads/2008/cescawriter/MeanderingontheMekong_E525/_MG_9630_thumb.jpg" border="0" alt="_MG_9630" width="240" height="160" /></a> <a href="http://www.outsidecontext.com/wordpress/wp-content/uploads/2008/cescawriter/MeanderingontheMekong_E525/_MG_9581.jpg" rel="lightbox[2961]" title="_MG_9581"><img style="display: inline" title="_MG_9581" src="http://www.outsidecontext.com/wordpress/wp-content/uploads/2008/cescawriter/MeanderingontheMekong_E525/_MG_9581_thumb.jpg" border="0" alt="_MG_9581" width="240" height="160" /></a></p>
<p>Sunrise over our bungalow and cocktails at sunset</p>
</blockquote>
<p>For a while we had fun staying within the village setting, one night splashing out and enjoying a simply delicious Belgium meal at the Sunset Restaurant, though after a few days this corridoresque living arrangement became very claustrophobic and we moved on.</p>
<p><strong>Don</strong> <strong>Khone</strong> was to be our last destination in Laos and it was much more our scene and my favourite island. Here the accommodation was more integrated into village life, rather than taking over from it. Locals played badminton at our guesthouse in the afternoons, school children road bikes to and from school, monks collected alms and cats, dogs, chickens and water-buffalo all roamed freely. Tourists here do not out-number locals. Perfect.</p>
<p><a href="http://www.outsidecontext.com/wordpress/wp-content/uploads/2008/cescawriter/MeanderingontheMekong_E525/IMG_9836.jpg" rel="lightbox[2961]" title="IMG_9836"><img style="display: inline" title="IMG_9836" src="http://www.outsidecontext.com/wordpress/wp-content/uploads/2008/cescawriter/MeanderingontheMekong_E525/IMG_9836_thumb.jpg" border="0" alt="IMG_9836" width="240" height="160" /></a> <a href="http://www.outsidecontext.com/wordpress/wp-content/uploads/2008/cescawriter/MeanderingontheMekong_E525/_MG_0005.jpg" rel="lightbox[2961]" title="_MG_0005"><img style="display: inline" title="_MG_0005" src="http://www.outsidecontext.com/wordpress/wp-content/uploads/2008/cescawriter/MeanderingontheMekong_E525/_MG_0005_thumb.jpg" border="0" alt="_MG_0005" width="240" height="160" /></a> <a href="http://www.outsidecontext.com/wordpress/wp-content/uploads/2008/cescawriter/MeanderingontheMekong_E525/_MG_0178.jpg" rel="lightbox[2961]" title="_MG_0178"><img style="display: inline" title="_MG_0178" src="http://www.outsidecontext.com/wordpress/wp-content/uploads/2008/cescawriter/MeanderingontheMekong_E525/_MG_0178_thumb.jpg" border="0" alt="_MG_0178" width="240" height="160" /></a><br />
<a href="http://www.outsidecontext.com/wordpress/wp-content/uploads/2008/cescawriter/MeanderingontheMekong_E525/IMG_9885.jpg" rel="lightbox[2961]" title="IMG_9885"><img style="display: inline" title="IMG_9885" src="http://www.outsidecontext.com/wordpress/wp-content/uploads/2008/cescawriter/MeanderingontheMekong_E525/IMG_9885_thumb.jpg" border="0" alt="IMG_9885" width="240" height="160" /></a> <a href="http://www.outsidecontext.com/wordpress/wp-content/uploads/2008/cescawriter/MeanderingontheMekong_E525/IMG_9874.jpg" rel="lightbox[2961]" title="IMG_9874"><img style="display: inline" title="IMG_9874" src="http://www.outsidecontext.com/wordpress/wp-content/uploads/2008/cescawriter/MeanderingontheMekong_E525/IMG_9874_thumb.jpg" border="0" alt="IMG_9874" width="240" height="160" /></a> <a href="http://www.outsidecontext.com/wordpress/wp-content/uploads/2008/cescawriter/MeanderingontheMekong_E525/IMG_0163.jpg" rel="lightbox[2961]" title="IMG_0163"><img style="display: inline" title="IMG_0163" src="http://www.outsidecontext.com/wordpress/wp-content/uploads/2008/cescawriter/MeanderingontheMekong_E525/IMG_0163_thumb.jpg" border="0" alt="IMG_0163" width="240" height="160" /></a></p>
<p>We hired bikes again and rode to the local beach to catch some rays. The bikes were really decrepit and though I started with one brake I soon had none! Lenin’s chain kept coming off and Bobbits bike was just as crazy as she. Still we managed to cycle there and back along the sand pathways, via an impressive waterfall, with no major traumas and above all had fun. I wouldn’t recommend taking the trip to see the larger waterfall from here though, although impressive the trip to the mainland is long and it was a major tourist trap which made it rather unpleasant to hang around.</p>
<p><a href="http://www.outsidecontext.com/wordpress/wp-content/uploads/2008/cescawriter/MeanderingontheMekong_E525/_MG_9842.jpg" rel="lightbox[2961]" title="_MG_9842"><img style="display: inline" title="_MG_9842" src="http://www.outsidecontext.com/wordpress/wp-content/uploads/2008/cescawriter/MeanderingontheMekong_E525/_MG_9842_thumb.jpg" border="0" alt="_MG_9842" width="240" height="160" /></a> <a href="http://www.outsidecontext.com/wordpress/wp-content/uploads/2008/cescawriter/MeanderingontheMekong_E525/IMG_9853.jpg" rel="lightbox[2961]" title="IMG_9853"><img style="display: inline" title="IMG_9853" src="http://www.outsidecontext.com/wordpress/wp-content/uploads/2008/cescawriter/MeanderingontheMekong_E525/IMG_9853_thumb.jpg" border="0" alt="IMG_9853" width="240" height="160" /></a> <a href="http://www.outsidecontext.com/wordpress/wp-content/uploads/2008/cescawriter/MeanderingontheMekong_E525/IMG_0266.jpg" rel="lightbox[2961]" title="IMG_0266"><img style="display: inline" title="IMG_0266" src="http://www.outsidecontext.com/wordpress/wp-content/uploads/2008/cescawriter/MeanderingontheMekong_E525/IMG_0266_thumb.jpg" border="0" alt="IMG_0266" width="240" height="160" /></a></p>
<p>From here we made the long trip across to Siem Reap in Cambodia, via Phnom Penh. While only $19 by bus it is a journey not for the travel weary, but a necessary evil to spend our last days with our buddies and celebrate Christmas at Angkor Wat! We literally danced across the border hand in hand and gave Laos one last longing look and our journey here was complete. We still miss Laos and would go back in a heartbeat!</p>
<p>Cesca</p>
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		<slash:comments>5</slash:comments>
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		<title>Lets go tubing!  A Basho Film</title>
		<link>http://www.outsidecontext.com/2009/01/17/lets-go-tubing-a-basho-film/</link>
		<comments>http://www.outsidecontext.com/2009/01/17/lets-go-tubing-a-basho-film/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Sat, 17 Jan 2009 13:54:15 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Basho</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Basho Films]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[General]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Travel]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Travel Portfolio]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[drunk]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[laos]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[laos PDR]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[M150]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[mekong]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Nam Song]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[river]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[swing]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[tubing]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[vang veng]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.outsidecontext.com/?p=2846</guid>
		<description><![CDATA["Lets go tubing!" This video highlights the crazy day my friends and I had while tubing the legendary Mekong river in Vang Veng, Laos, South East Asia in November 2008.]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>&#8220;Lets go tubing!&#8221; This video highlights the crazy day my friends and I had while tubing the legendary Nam Song River in Vang Vieng, Laos, South East Asia in November 2008. Tubing is a misnomer really as the real activity is paddling between bars, downing masses of drink to dance music all while watching drunk girls wearing bikinis!</p>
<p>I had a great time that day and every now and then watch this film to reflect on it. Drunken days like this are certainly not my norm! Just before the video kicks off and we are shown in a bar is the moment that I came face to fangs with the worlds largest spider, which you read about here: <a href="http://www.outsidecontext.com/2009/11/23/bashos-5-amazing-spider-encounters/">http://www.outsidecontext.com/2009/11/23/bashos-5-amazing-spider-encounters/</a></p>
<p>-</p>
<p><span id="more-2846"></span><br />
<object width="425" height="344" classid="clsid:d27cdb6e-ae6d-11cf-96b8-444553540000" codebase="http://download.macromedia.com/pub/shockwave/cabs/flash/swflash.cab#version=6,0,40,0"><param name="allowFullScreen" value="true" /><param name="allowscriptaccess" value="always" /><param name="src" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/KIC96z0PZ50&amp;hl=en&amp;fs=1" /><param name="allowfullscreen" value="true" /><embed width="425" height="344" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" src="http://www.youtube.com/v/KIC96z0PZ50&amp;hl=en&amp;fs=1" allowFullScreen="true" allowscriptaccess="always" allowfullscreen="true" /></object></p>
<p>&nbsp;</p>
<p>Some notes about the film:</p>
<ul>
<li>M150 is the demonspawn of Redbull and god knows what &#8211; it is banned in most countries for its effects being similar to speed</li>
<li>The video camera was wrist mounted and the same one used in many of my other videos. It is water and mud proof</li>
<li>We all had an crazy time and danced till it was dark before Tuk-Tuk&#8217;ing back to town for our tube deposits</li>
<li>The tubes are large Lorry inner tubes and prone to being uncontrollable</li>
<li>This video is dedicated to Colin who missed out on the fun due to his having been partying for 24 hour straight the day before. The quote at the front is his.</li>
<li>Once the M150 wore off we all crashed in bed for the next day</li>
</ul>
<p>Laos is a very poor country that needs as much help as we can give it, so if you do visit Laos please pick up the &#8220;Stay another day&#8221; book that details how you can help this brilliant but struggling nation.</p>
<p>For more information about Laos and visiting, why not check out our Laos articles?</p>
<p>&nbsp;</p>
<p><a href="http://www.outsidecontext.com/2009/04/11/laos-pdr-mekong-meanderings/">http://www.outsidecontext.com/2009/04/11/laos-pdr-mekong-meanderings/</a></p>
<p><a href="http://www.outsidecontext.com/2009/03/19/laos-pdr-history-heart/">http://www.outsidecontext.com/2009/03/19/laos-pdr-history-heart/</a></p>
<p><a href="http://www.outsidecontext.com/2009/05/21/laos-the-gem-of-indochina-a-cultural-connection/">http://www.outsidecontext.com/2009/05/21/laos-the-gem-of-indochina-a-cultural-connection/</a></p>
<p><a href="http://www.outsidecontext.com/2009/03/05/the-american-war/">http://www.outsidecontext.com/2009/03/05/the-american-war/</a></p>
<p>&nbsp;</p>
<p>These show the other sides of Laos.</p>
<p>Regards,</p>
<p>&nbsp;</p>
<p>Basho</p>
<p>&nbsp;</p>
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		<slash:comments>7</slash:comments>
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