Central North Island simmers and steams, bubbles and spews. The pungent smell of sulphur emanates from the rising hot steam in a harsh and uninviting landscape. Lakes have formed in the calderas of volcanoes where once mighty eruptions occurred the likes of which we have not seen in our lifetime of which epic stories are told. Mud pools bubble at the surface, great fountains of boiling water charge out from large pools below the earth’s crust and minerals colour the bare craggy rock in rich primary colours.

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There is a cleanness to the air found in mountains; a fresh taste.  This freshness can bring both the snows that cover the peaks and the rains that obscure them.  Rains turn to fogs and clouds, so that the vistas to been seen from the peeks can only be momentarily glimpsed.  Their elevation has drawn many men to seek the highest vantage points. 

I have always loved mountains.  Either looking up to their framing of the valleys below or being able to stand on their summits and view the distant vistas they offer.  New Zealand has offered some of the most amazing mountains I have seen outside the ski fields of Europe and I share with you now some of those discoveries here.

North Island - Mount Tongariro

Mount Tongariro is actually an entire volcanic complex and World Heritage site.  It is located 10 miles southwest of Taupo, and comprised of three active volcanoes dominating the landscape of the central North Island.  We first saw the complex from the van on our arrival at lake Taupo.  Its snow caped peeks were visible in the far distance over the lake above the shoreline.  The park itself is roughly split into two parts.  The main mountain town of Whakapapa is half way into the mountains and the base of the ski fields that sit atop its leading road.  It has all levels of accommodation and comfort but we made tracks straight for the DOC campsite that sits between the road and a river.  The average DOC site is a simple affair, but this one was much more.  It had hot water – one of the few! – powered sites, a laundrette and a shop.  All unlikely findings in a DOC camp.  It also had one of the greatest views in the world. 

Or at least it should have…

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The majesty of the Cape was long lived in our minds, but we had to move on eventually.  We climbed back into The Mammoth and headed back down the coast towards Hokianga Harbour, which marks the lower end point of 90 Mile Beach and the start of the Kauri Coast.

The journey down took the best part of the day and it was getting dark and raining hard by the time we got to the road leading to the Kohu Kohu ferry.  As we drove down the access road I heard the sound I had been dreading; the sound of a flat tire.  We managed to limp onto the jetty and look at the time table.  A ferry was due in 5 minutes – no way to change the tire by then – and the last of the day was due 20 minutes later. 

The ferry did arrive and the crew offered their apologies but insisted that we must change the tire before boarding. I could hear a slight chuckle in their voices and they whistled and shook their heads.

Thus we had our challenge: could we change it before their return?

Bloody right we could! 

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For normal people the hiring of a campervan is simple.  However, for us, well…

We did our usual thing of arriving a full day ahead of the booking and yet somehow wangling ourselves a free upgrade and not being charged for the extra day.  I think that this is something to do with the puppy-eyed faces Cesca can pull when things seem not to be going her way.  People all around rush to her aid, anything to protect the innocent gentleness behind those eyes.  In another time such a power would have been called a mighty and terrible witchcraft - and perhaps I would have agreed with this Inquisition were it not for the fact that Cesca simply does not know that she does this! (and, of course, she has those eyes ready for me too…)

Anyway, after a little haggling we were given this:

[Cue A-TEAM intro music] “De de de… de de de… de-de-de-de-de… de-de-de-de!”

“Ten years ago, a crack commando unit was sent to New Zealand for crimes they didn’t commit. Today, still wanted by the government, they survive as backpackers of fortune. If you have a problem, if no one else can help, and if you can find them, maybe you can hire…

…a campervan?”

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Having vested ourselves of the plane to New Zealand from Sydney, and having made it through the somewhat mercurial Australian security check points with its “explosive smelling device”, we came to Auckland in the grip of a rain storm.  Fat welts of rain pummelled the pavements outside the airport doors throwing up a fine mist and risking localised flooding.  Well, this is New Zealand in winter!  As (Father-In-Law) Nick put it,

“If you can hack NZ in Winter then you’ll love it in summer!”

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Mount Cook

New Zealand is a country Cesca and I have longed to visit for many years.  Tales speak of this island and its seemingly unique people.  That they are more friendly than the most sociable of Australian’s, more “outdoors-loving” than even Scottish highlanders and more into extreme sports than anyone outside Cirque-de-soleil!  Moreover, all of the “Kiwis” I have met have been the most persuasive of ambassadors as they have a deep and abiding love of their country, a great love of sporting life and and all of them stand a pint.

Then Lord of the Rings came out and that, as they say, was that.

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A writers guide to what to take on your travels.

Many people like to keep their friends and families updated when travelling by using the power of the internet.  Email and Facebook are fine systems that allow travellers to pass on news of the wider world in simple bite size chunks, but these are not enough.  Travellers are often away for longer periods of time and have much more to say in the forms of pictures as well as words and even film.  The multimedia rich records of travel cannot easily be emailed without sending large files that clog up multiple inboxes.  Neither can you attach a movie to a postcard!

Why wait until you are back to show you family your pictures and film?  Why not let them experience the joy of travelling alongside you in a way that will endure?

You can!  The secret is to have the right kit with you – so that you can blog your way around the world.

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