The majesty of the Cape was long lived in our minds, but we had to move on eventually.  We climbed back into The Mammoth and headed back down the coast towards Hokianga Harbour, which marks the lower end point of 90 Mile Beach and the start of the Kauri Coast.

The journey down took the best part of the day and it was getting dark and raining hard by the time we got to the road leading to the Kohu Kohu ferry.  As we drove down the access road I heard the sound I had been dreading; the sound of a flat tire.  We managed to limp onto the jetty and look at the time table.  A ferry was due in 5 minutes – no way to change the tire by then – and the last of the day was due 20 minutes later. 

The ferry did arrive and the crew offered their apologies but insisted that we must change the tire before boarding. I could hear a slight chuckle in their voices and they whistled and shook their heads.

Thus we had our challenge: could we change it before their return?

Bloody right we could! 

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For normal people the hiring of a campervan is simple.  However, for us, well…

We did our usual thing of arriving a full day ahead of the booking and yet somehow wangling ourselves a free upgrade and not being charged for the extra day.  I think that this is something to do with the puppy-eyed faces Cesca can pull when things seem not to be going her way.  People all around rush to her aid, anything to protect the innocent gentleness behind those eyes.  In another time such a power would have been called a mighty and terrible witchcraft - and perhaps I would have agreed with this Inquisition were it not for the fact that Cesca simply does not know that she does this! (and, of course, she has those eyes ready for me too…)

Anyway, after a little haggling we were given this:

[Cue A-TEAM intro music] “De de de… de de de… de-de-de-de-de… de-de-de-de!”

“Ten years ago, a crack commando unit was sent to New Zealand for crimes they didn’t commit. Today, still wanted by the government, they survive as backpackers of fortune. If you have a problem, if no one else can help, and if you can find them, maybe you can hire…

…a campervan?”

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