The rain is coming down so hard that rivers are created all over China
Town. We shelter at a little eatery, tuck into a great plate of
noodles washed down with Tiger beer and watch the world go by.

After only a day apart Quantas finds my missing bag in Australia! One
flight and a taxi drive later I am reunited with my clothes. Phew I
was starting to worry! Still, the S$100 they gave me to say sorry
paid for our extra night here so not all bad.

One of the largest and most impressive Bhuddist temples in this part
of the world. This magnificent temple has 5 floors all filled with
golden treasures. Including a 20ft Bhudda.

Hawker food - Singapore style. Two people eat for £5.

Day one in SE Asia and Quantas have lost my luggage. The heat of the
city - and wearing yesturdays clothes - drives us into Brotzeit, a
german bar. A couple of cold ones later I feel ready to tackle
Singapore’s China Town.

On a side trip to Nelson, Basho encounters the actual “One Ring” from
the Lord of the Rings movie.

Our abode here was luxurious compared to the hostels we had become accustomed to. Susannah and Rowan (family friend) had kindly offered us their spare room for a few days while we explored their home from home. As much a backpacking is the life we chose for now there is nothing like the comforts of home, even if it is not your own. Being surrounded by the warmth of friends, clean dry warm fresh-smelling fluffy towels, soft comfortable bed, efficient washing machine and detergent, homely kitchen, television etc and all complimentary too. For us this was heaven! After a delicious ‘welcome’ supper, I joke with Susannah that their abode would of course be included and scored our rated travel accommodation list on our blog. Obviously  there was nothing to concern her as their score is a clear 5/5 with the ultimate in luxury being able to lie-in passed 8am and not have to pack our bags for check out for a few of days. Bliss! Thank you again

 

Susannah and Rowan’s lovely St Kilda East home

The weather in Melbourne was not in our favour and resembled the gray skies of London. In fact the river here was reminiscent of the River Thames and for us the whole city felt like a mini London. This was both a plus (it felt very familiar) and a minus (it was just all too familiar). We joked on our trip that around every city corner there is an EY building and here we found a Nokia Care store too! Both previous clients.

Still, we had a lovely time here visiting art galleries, design and film museums.

The National Gallery of Victoria was showing a truly sensational exhibition called ‘Moon in Reflection’ by Kim Hoa Tram who is a Melbourne based Vietnamese born Chinese artist. The exhibition of large simple artworks, which marry Chinese calligraphy with Chan (Zen) Buddhism to illustrate the path to enlightenment, are both profound and beautiful. I have subsequently bought ‘The Essential Dalai Lama’ which is the first book of his collected wisdom. Buddhism is a way of life I have always wanted to learn about and which has since expanded my approach to life. This purchase has please J greatly and we now have discussions about the Buddhist teaching together!

Melbourne was a very social spot for us. Kelly (Haywood) and her partner John have emigrated recently and we met over drinks and dinner. Emigration seems good for them and they look well on the, usually great, weather and outdoors lifestyle. I however sense they question how much the 9-5 is inhibiting their discovery of Australia itself. We hooked up for coffee with Frankie & Andy (a fun English couple we met in Adelaide) who are travelling with their delightful 2yr old daughter. It was great to see that travelling with a young children in not as prohibitive and daunting as we had been lead to believe.

Of all the cities in Australia that we could potentially move to, Melbourne would be our choice. We love the outdoors lifestyle coupled with interesting architecture and a vibrant creative and cultural edge. The suburban housing has all the quintessential character that is missed elsewhere in Australia. But if we were to emigrate her I would ask myself if this… “Would it become another London experience on the other side of the world?” Which confirms the idea that it is not particularly another country we are looking for it is another way of life.

Cesca

P.S.

Susannah & Rowan: we would both like to thank you for your kindness at having us to stay. Our welcome was warm and your food delicious. Thank you for allowing us free reign in your home and for couriering for my belongings over. We wish you both well and your silver lining is around the corner.

Kelly & John: It was lovely to catch up after so long. Melbourne seems like a great place and ideally suited to you being full of very sporty/arty people. We wish you well with your new job, just don’t get too sucked in! Enjoy the skiing and remember there is the whole of Australia to see and it is so worthwhile

Frankie & Andy: Lovely to have caught up in Melbourne. Enjoy your trip in Indonesia. NZ has been a ball so far with mainly blue skies and warm temperatures, but navigating passed the many washouts and potholes can be fun! Hope to see you in SE Asia.

Our nippy little automatic

After much discussion and deliberation on the best/cheapest way to see the Great Ocean Road, we hired a car from Adelaide to Melbourne for the 3 day trip with our itinerary loosely based on a conventional tour.

Avis hired us a reasonably priced 5 door, brand new, automatic, Toyota Corolla which was lovely to drive. We (I) were particularly happy in was not white like most Aussie motor vehicles! The automatic gears were easier than we feared so, after a quick and embarrassing initial explanation, we were on the road.

Driving out of town we climbed up into the pretty wine region of the Adelaide Hills and the German settlement of Harndorf. At the cellar door we sampled a few good wines, of which Nepenthe Winery was a highlight for James having enjoyed their mixed grape blend named ‘Tryst’ many times before. In town lunch was classic German fare of sausages and sauerkraut. We pottered around the shops remarking how familiar the European culture and architecture seemed.

We journeyed hard along the straight Australian roads, so much so that I only took 8 photos that entire day. Miracle! Evening fell as we neared Halls Gap in the Grampian Mountains where we were to stay at the renowned Eco-lodge YHA. As light faded into dark the scenic route wound round and round and over the mountainside where signs warned of leaping Kangaroos and falling rocks. Going slightly crazed with the endless extreme cornering needed we amused ourselves using mock Scottish accents describing the dangers of the highland pass.

“Ye’ not going up t’mountain when the ‘roos are out in the dark, are‘ye mad man!?” James began

“Why yes, and those rocks could fall all about ‘ye too” replied Cesca

Finally arriving safely but tired and hungry we headed to local pub for nourishment on a fellow guests recommendation. Sadly their palettes did not match ours, but the mound of pasta filled a certain gap and I gave an extra mark for the innovative cookies n’ cream cheesecake.

DAY TWO

We chilled in the morning taking full advantage of our 24hr Global Gossip access on wireless (Wifi) no less! I can’t believe we can use wireless in the mountains when it’s so hard to get elsewhere, bizarre! Not wanting to strain James’ swollen knee from a substantial knock on the bedpost in Cairns, we drove to the ‘MacKenzie Falls’ via an impressive view of the Grampians. This particular vista was in our view Australia laying down the gauntlet to New Zealand for the most dramatic landscape.

We picnicked back at Halls Gaps to save pennies and headed south towards Warrenambool and the Great Ocean Road. There were plenty of amazing rock-formations to see along the coast, including; ‘London Bridge’, ‘Loch & Gorge’, ‘Blowhole’, ‘Thunder Caves’ and ultimately the ‘Twelve Apostles’.

As the light ebbed away, and clouds covered any evidence of sunset, we abandoned trying to reach the ‘Twelve Apostles’ until tomorrow and headed for our hostel in Princetown. Happily we had ‘The 13th Apostle’ hostel to ourselves. Supper was a reasonable pizza, a couple of rum & cokes and accompanied by the Olympic Games in a restaurant come pub come shop come takeaway come bottle-shop come ice-cream parlour over the road!

DAY THREE

In the morning the ‘Twelve Apostles’ were the agenda. Previously known as the ‘Sow and Piglets’ (which James preferred) there are in fact only six ‘Apostles’ still standing. The ever evolving landscape is constantly moulded by the relentless ocean creating and destroying these amazing pillars of rock. The sea is impressive in itself. The clear Atlantic waves, blue with cold, pounds against the might of the caramel-coloured rock. The Southerly wind is biting, even though temperatures are in the mid-teens.

Snapshot of us at the ‘Twelve Apostles’ taken by a fellow Canon EOS traveller. I politely put my camera on ‘P’ and he put his on ‘green square’ for a reciprocal snapshot. Insulting.

James drove us along winding coast, around cliffs and over creeks in between. We paid a visit to the Otaway Lighthouse, which was the first human settlement seen by early-settlers since leaving European shores. Standing here since 1848 it is still in perfect working order even though no concrete cements the bricks together. Once inside we were treated to a free private tour of its workings by the retired Lighthouse Keeper. Engineering was built to last in those days and amazingly I could still easily manoeuvre the heavy lights on the runners. The surrounding parkland was home to the native koalas but unfortunately we were not to see one there.

Now for those who have heard of the ‘100 year storm’ or are closet ‘Point Break’, Keanu or Swayze fans, the next stop would be a must! I guess I must be a closet ’surf bum’ so for me ‘Bells Beach’ was a childhood dream realised. James was slightly bemused by my renewed excitement at watching yet more surfers attempt to conquer the perfect wave on another Aussie beach. For me though this place was a chance to turn back time and step into movie-land and imagine striding down the beach as a cool surf chick with a sexy surfer dude by your side! I’m looking forward to re-watching ‘Point Break’ soon and smiling.

Just one more mission lay ahead before the day was out. Coasting by surfing centre of Torquay (Victoria) we had to take a photo to blog for Shaun (J’s surfer cousin) who emigrates to Oz in December and lives in Brixham, a short ferry ride from Torquay (Devon).

Photo achieved we jumped on the highway and, like a fine art, navigated through Melbourne into the suburb of St Kilda East without arguing over directions or getting entirely lost in the sea of bright lights. Awaiting us there with warmth and hospitality were Susannah and Rowan, a welcome sight indeed.

Cesca

Our carriage awaits for the 19 hour journey from Alice Springs to Adelaide

Immaculately dressed attendants stood at the doors of each carriage, or so I thought until we reached our attendant and realised the previous carriages were for premier service. Still our red service attendant was very friendly and helpful. Our seats had plenty of leg room which helps J relax and there was a lounge,  dining carriage and bar for the red service passengers to use.

Informative announcements were made about local landmarks we passed along the way. Landmarks including the ‘Finke River’, a statue of the ‘Iron Man’ and the all important boarder crossing. With my nose against the window I stared into the ever decreasing light to see the boarder crossing between the Northern Territory and Southern Australia.

The first human settlement and the first water we saw since leaving Alice was at Port Augusta. Known as ‘The Gateway of Australia’ due to the fact that all transport from East to West and from North to South goes through here. Heading South the landscape makes a dramatic change into lush green fields surrounded by tree-lined hedgerows, crowned with wind farms and scattered with vineyards and livestock. It was reminiscent of my childhood home in the rolling hills of Somerset!

After breakfast we resided in the lounge as I took photos of the new green landscape. Here we met an elderly couple who took an interest in our journey around the world and our creative endeavors. Peter wrote agricultural articles for ABC radio. Shortly after we were suddenly joined by a chatty man who was rather perturbed to have earlier been mistaken for ‘Doctor Death’! This was Franco. Franco had been visiting the Aboriginal communities North of Alice and traveling through the outback in an old Toyota Corolla! This appeared to us as a crazy thing to do, and it was. Franco had been bogged in red sand for 18 hours using meditation and rationing to survive before being rescued by a passerby! Over the coming hours we discussed politics, housing and the stock market with all those in the carriage.

Innocently inquiring about the area where Franco lived, he invited us to stay, in exchange for some help in the garden and some odd jobs around the house. True to his word Franco collected us the following morning from another Annie’s Place (in Adelaide) and took us to his home in Hyde Park (an affluent part of town). We were impressed by his openness and trust as he gave us a key to his home and left us there for the duration of the afternoon whilst he ran errands. We made ourselves at home and in return tidied and cleaned in his absence.

That afternoon we visited to Adelaide Central Market, a tourist highlight in the LP (Lonely Planet). Franco was obsessed with the price of everything here. Though we later discovered he lectures in Accountancy at the University which explained his strange behaviour. There was an amazing array of goods and a buzz in the air from all the sellers shouting their wares. Everything was for sale including garlic sticks, kangaroo steaks, crocodile fillets and Blood-Russian tomatoes. ‘Zuma’ is THE cafe to go to around here. You’re right on the doorstep of the food court in Chinatown, where J bought a book! That evening Franco shared with us a simple supper and his delicious homemade strudel, which he nicknamed ‘Frudel’. By 9pm I was rather concerned about our sleeping arrangement as Franco had not yet found any bedding for us. Relying on the kind nature of his neighbours we were bestowed all the bed-linen and blankets (Manchester) we desired. Our night on the sofa-bed was most comfortable.

Wednesday saw us helping in the garden which made me very happy. I weeding an extremely overgrown vegetable and herb garden as James mowed a jungle of a lawn to discover an unseen path underneath! That evening we visited his parents for supper, though Franco cooked for us (then cleaned out the chicken coop) whilst we tried to converse with his Italian speaking parents whilst they were watching TV, strange! Thursday was tree planting day, this time under the guidance of Franco’s green-fingered friend.  Sadly the wild rocket came a cropper during the weeding, oops! During moving some rocks James uncovered a Redback spider to his horror. We had all been gardening without gloves and this discovery made us all much more cautious.

As promised that afternoon Franco gave us a private viewing of his Aboriginal Art collection at Father Christopher’s house. The artworks were breathtaking and well worth seeing. He certainly has an eye for art and James and I were happy to listen to the story about each artwork. Tea with the vicar was as you would expect, lots of tea and lots of delicious cake.

In town we took a tour along North Terrace, home of the Parliament buildings and the art galleries of South Australia, until the heavens opened.

Adelaide itself is an interesting city built by Colonel William Light who controversially wrote:

“The reason that led me to fix Adelaide where it is I do not expect to be generally understood or calmly judges of at present. My enemies, however, by disputing their validity in every particular, have done me the good service of fixing the whole of the responsibility upon me. I am perfectly willing to bear it; and I leave it to posterity, and not them, to decide whether I am entitled to praise or to blame.”

The centre of this city is based on a grid format of wide street, civic squares and a particularly unique and lovely wide green belt surrounding it that makes up a third of the city area. We liked Adelaide as it is compact enough to walk around in one day, but scratch beneath the surface and you will find gems of creativity and personality that are hard to find elsewhere in Oz. The Aboriginal art exhibitions, recommended to us by Franco, were great examples of the culture and heritage here and well worth the trip.

Staying with Franco was a wonderful and enlightening experience. He is a fascinating and passionate man who has a great understanding of the true values of life. As a youngster Franco made a decent living as an accountant before deciding that life is much more than money and the 9-5. So he took to the road for many years of traveling. He has marched across Europe for peace (dressed as Charlie Chaplin) and ultimately met the Pope on this quest. He has a good and compassionate nature with a love of people and both an artistic eye and mathematical brain. We wish him well in life and in all he tries to achieve. He is a great man to know.

By Friday it was time for us to make tracks out of Adelaide and move on to Kangaroo Island for some WWOOFing.

Note.  Please note that the artworks shown in this blog are the property of Franco.  If you are interested in them in any way please contact us via email - do not link them or post them elsewhere.  Thank you.

It includes all the iPhone photos taken since leaving the UK: